"The Earl of March is the sort of pub of which any county should be proud" Bill Knott, Financial Times "How To Spend It" 05 May, 2010

 

Nyetimber has been flying the flag for English sparkling wine for more than 15 years. Devotees, as I recently discovered, include the former chef of The Ritz, Giles Thompson, and the deeply French Fred Sirieux, general manager at the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, atop the Hilton on Park Lane.

Giles Thompson rusticated himself nearly three years ago, swapping the Smoke for green and pleasant Goodwood. The Earl of March is the sort of pub of which any county should be proud: delicious, robust ingredients, many from nearby estates, lightened by the touch of an excellent chef, served with local ales and English fizz at very reasonable prices. When I visited, a plump chunk of fresh-as-a daisy brill - matched very successfully with Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 1996 - was topped with crab meat and sat in a fine lobster sauce; the accompanying kale was notably springy and delicious. A fine cheeseboard included the delicate, buttery Flower Marie from East Sussex, made from ewe's milk.